With the release of “Dian Fu”, the Spring/Summer 2009 “Inside/Out” Collection, Shanghai Tang takes iconic Chinese garments turns them on their head, and reinterprets them through a thoroughly modern lens.
The collection is replete with Chineseness, but, as opposed to collections past, the references are subtle and ironic, rather than hit-you-over-the-head statements.
The scholar’s robe, traditionally, a rather magisterial and forbidding garment, has been given a new lease on life in butter soft leather. Moreover, the classic side opening has been supplanted with a convenient front opening placket – a witty commentary on the time-honored cut of classical Chinese robes, which, for centuries, have always opened, asymmetrically, on one side.
The Mao Jacket, an emblem of China’s most tumultuous historical period, is the subject of manifold, new interpretations, appearing, in its entirety or referenced widely throughout the collection in camp pockets or Mao collars: some examples of New Mao are a double-knit jacket, a leather and crochet vest, and a linen blouse with side pockets and Mao collar.
The du dou, a woman’s undergarment comprised of a front panel, tied on to the torso, with strings, is one of the most universal, but less celebrated garments in Chinese history. It finally sees the light of day as a bare-backed sequined halter top. The du dou also appears in a witty trompe l’oeil intarsia sweater.
Keeping in tune with fashion’s color palette this season, the collection’s colors are largely neutral and organic, with shades of stone, khaki and dusty rose predominating. But bright hits of color, such as royal blue, fuchsia and bright yellow, maintain the vibrancy one has come to expect of Shanghai Tang. The prints, “Terrace”, “Technoflower” and “Ant Flower” are strongly influenced by Chinese contemporary art – especially Cai Guoqiang and Zhu Ming.
These prints signal the future direction of the brand’s ready-to-wear: Not only will contemporary art continue to inspire the creativity of the design team, but the references to Chinese culture will take on more abstract, refined and unexpected expressions as the brand moves forward in its pioneering journey as the leading exponent of Modern Chinese Chic.
The collection is released in three distinct inspirations, firstly the “Revisionist History,” secondly the “New Mao,” and lastly the “Extra Ordinary.”
Taken From : China Daily
,
No comments:
Post a Comment